Nthawi Ya Mvula (The Rainy Season)

Only one week ago, we were wondering if we were destined to be denied access to the big show: for months we were wondering how the plant and animal life was sustained with so little water. In fact, we are told, that certain plants flower more vigorously when the soil is particularly dry. We grew increasingly concerned: riverbeds were bone dry, as a consequence of several months with no measurable rainfall.

Our Malawian friends reassured us that, when the earth was ready, the skies would rumble and the rain would fall. In recent weeks, clouds gathered on the horizon and I would find Mr. Malunga; “Is the rainy season about to begin?” As only Mr. Malunga can, he would point out the “the skies, they are wanting to rain….but they are failing to do so. Exactly.”

Almost exactly one week ago, Mr. Malunga pointed out that the insects that cry for rain, were unusually noisy and that the grasshoppers were more active. “Listen”, he instructed. I heard only the usual cacophony of unfamiliar bug sounds. For subsistence farmers accustomed to reading the skies and the earth, it was an unmistakable harbinger. Like clockwork…the skies darkened and the deluge began. The first day of heavy rain was like a snow day in Denver: excited shouts to close the windows, as employees gathered to watch and hear the awesome display.

In the wake of the daily showers, we have had front row seats for the Big Show: the earth has shaken off its slumber and is vibrating with energy. The soil itself moves, as hordes of insects go about the business of gathering food and shelter. It’s the cloud of flying ants that most intrigues, as they seem destined to live their lives in frenzied activity for only 24 hours: their lifeless bodies are everywhere in the morning. The phosphorescent birds and lizards have, of course, taken note….and watch for signs of movement, as they anticipate lunch. Families of monkeys have reappeared…eating the mangoes on the mango trees that encircle the house. And the massive trees! Oh my goodness, I had no idea that such a deep green was possible! Overnight they have gone from pale, lifeless brown/green to an unnaturally intense dark, dark green.

This is how we remember Malawi in January, when we emerged onto the tarmac….wide-eyed and visibly overwhelmed eleven short months ago. Hanging like a promise.

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